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Another wide range of stones to choose from. Coarser stones are best for fast, flat edge setting and geometry repair, medium for standard maintenance edge setting and fine for finish work. We recommend working on the micro bevel to set a new edge first, then follow up on the wide bevels or wide single bevel to preserve the ideal blade geometry and apply your desired finish. Always follow up on a strop with chromium oxide to remove burr.

Note, a ceramic rod is acceptable on double bevel knives for a quick on the go touch up but is not good for single bevel as it will remove the flatness of the inside ‘flat’ hollow ground ura edge.

As a general rule of thumb for most maintenance sharpening on dull edges, first use a stone coarse enough to quickly re-set flat edges and bring the two bevels into contact to form a burr. Progress through several stones on wide surfaces to remove scratches from the previous stone. Going from a 1000 grit to a 8000 grit will be less effective than 1000, 2000, 4000, 8000 but 1000, 2000, 8000 can work on many steels as well, the appearance might be patchy but this is an aesthetic concern only.

On single bevel knives that are not too dull, a quick tune-up can be done by working on the micro bevel and ura -- always flat on inside ura; NEVER angled -- with a fine stone. However, following up on the wide bevel with coarser stones is necessary to maintain the correct geometry.

For a purely utilitarian finish, removing the majority of the coarsest scratches is all that is needed to keep the knife from roughing food surfaces. For a more refined look, use a full progression of stones to cleanly remove the all of the scratches from the previous stone. 

Keep in mind not all knives benefit from the finest polish possible. Steel type and type of use determine the optimum finishing stone. A yanagi made from shirogami can benefit from a fine 8000 grit finish, while a deba knife also made from shirogami does not. Often lower grit ‘toothy’ finish stones -- 2000 to 4000 -- will give more bite whereas fine finishes -- 5000+ -- leave a more razor-like keenness. Coarser "toothy" finishes can also translate to longer edge life on stainless steels.
Having several stones to be able to choose the right finish for variety of knives is ideal. Having several stones also allows for a variety of finishes from sharpening each side at a different finish. Ex: 8000 on inside bevel, 2000 on outside for debas 

Some natural stones are great with Japanese wide double or single bevel knives. Generally, the more complex the alloy, the softer, slightly coarser stones are best: LV 3-3.5 in hardness and fineness.
Often, very hard -- LV 4 to 5 -- stones will leave scratches in hard, high alloy steel. Typically stones that are good for knives should release a little mud on their own with only water and work. Super hard stones -- LV 4.5-5 -- have a more limited use on knives.

Diamond stone flatteners are best to quickly level out the widest range of stone grits. Some flatteners can leave behind large particulates on finer stones that can leave deep, unexpected scratches. Use your fingers to feel for any malignant grit that needs to be cleaned off. After flattening fine stones, use a nagura or second fine stone to smooth out the grooves left from the flattener.
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Bernal Cutlery Takarazukushi 1000/4000 Combination Grit Japanese Whetstone

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