Prototype Greenfield Gyuto 9" Chef Knife D2 Carbon Steel Old Honduran Rosewood

The Greenfield Gyuto is tempered and ground in the style of a Japanese chef knife which is designed to work with precision on vegetables, boneless proteins, etc., items that are not excessively hard or require hacking to cut. The edge can be damaged on frozen food, bones, shells, pits etc. As a good rule of thumb, if you wouldn’t bite it, don’t use the Greenfield Gyuto on it.

Sharpening is best done with Japanese whetstones, finishing between 3000 and 8000 grit depending on the user's preference. Ceramic honing rods or high quality medium- to fine-cut sharpening steels are great for keeping the edge lively in between sharpenings. Avoid pull-through sharpeners and be choosy about which professional sharpener works on this knife. Send it to Bernal Cutlery for maintenance if possible.

For cutting boards, Japanese softwood and end-grain hardwood are preferable, although some long-grain hardwoods are fine to use. Avoid bamboo and hard composites, which will reduce the edge life. Higher end Japanese synthetics are preferable to low cost plastic boards (but wood is more hygienic).

Tool steel alloys are sometimes referred to as 'semi-stainless' since they rust slower than simpler carbon steel alloys, but are not fully stainless and need basic care. Water is the primary agent of rust, but foods that have a very acidic or basic pH, or are high in salt will increase reactivity during cutting. Wipe the blade dry during heavy use and after washing (Soap is OK, but avoid using the abrasive side of the sponge if possible.) Always avoid soaking, and keep out of dishwashers.

Carbon steel will form a patina with careful use. This is a light layer of oxidation which forms before rusting. Some cooks prefer to remove it often, while others like to cultivate it. We think patina looks cool and offers a first layer of protection against rust. If active orange rust forms, remove it with the finest non-corrosive abrasive possible. Coarse abrasives will invite further rust by creating scratches where water can get trapped. To remove a light rust, we like to apply the mud formed from fine, Japanese, finishing stones to a rag and gently polish it off. Silver polishing pastes with silica will function in the same way. For deeper, heavier rust, use stronger abrasives like a fine sandpaper or non-corrosive scouring powder.